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Posted
My roots just aren't where they should be, and that has me concerned. This year I have switched to Premiers Subtilex soil. I think there is only about 1/2 what should be developed. They have been in 4 weeks. I ran a Truban drench at transplant and again this week. I also included Actinovate SP a week after transplant. I had to water daily for 6 days to keep the cube wet as we were well over 100 degrees at transplant. I am letting them dry down slightly between waterings. I already know the answer, but is there anything else I can do to help? Has anyone had trouble with root developement in Subtilex soil?
Thanks
 
Posts: 87 | Location: Kansas | Registered: Mon May 22 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Greenthumb -

Plants prioritize their energy to the area of greatest need. If the plants are sitting in well-fed, charged up media with plenty of moisture availability there is no need for the roots to expand further and maintain a big root system.

Letting them dry down a little as you are doing will help. You may also want to evaluate how much fertilizer the plants are getting. Maybe the rate is too high? If that's the case along with the watering you could back off a little on the feed and keep the plants a little more on the hungry side until the roots expand more.

Also check for signs of pythium. Even small instances of the pathogen can suppress root growth.

Hope this helps.....


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Posts: 1913 | Location: Encinitas, CA USA | Registered: Thu March 20 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Greenthumb, This picture is 15 days after transplant from rooted liners to final container and where I usually expect the plants to be at this stage. I will be pinching in another 4 days. What are your soluble salts levels?....Michael Pawelek

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Michael Pawelek,
 
Posts: 671 | Location: Brookshire, Texas | Registered: Wed September 03 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Michael, love to see the photos of your plants! And it's great to get advice from an "ol'" pro, like you! Wink
What size pot is that in the photos?
 
Posts: 98 | Location: Arlington, VA | Registered: Fri July 28 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Deanne, Well, I'm not so old that I couldn't beat you at a foot race.................providing a 10 minute head start! Smile Picture is a 6" azalea sized container....Michael Pawelek
 
Posts: 671 | Location: Brookshire, Texas | Registered: Wed September 03 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Thanks!
This is such a great resource and hand-holder, especially for us small growers. (I grow only 600 points and sell only to our club membership.) Now if I could find the same sort of thing for pansies, I'd be sleeping blissfully every night!
 
Posts: 98 | Location: Arlington, VA | Registered: Fri July 28 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Are Ecke's EC numbers based on SME? With an SME I am around 1.5.

What does Ecke rec on making ec checks? 1:1, 2:1, SME? I spent a bunch of money on direct stick EC and pH meters with Ball, most say they aren't accurate unless you take a sample and make an SME or 1:1.

Thanks
 
Posts: 87 | Location: Kansas | Registered: Mon May 22 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hi Greenthumb -

The recommendations for the acceptable EC range we give on our tech sheets are based on using SME. Here are the acceptable ranges for the various methods:

SME: 1.5-2.5
1:2: .07-1.3
Pour through: 2.2-3.8

There really isn't a preferred method, though most commercial labs use the SME method. Once you choose a method it is important to stick with it though, as different methods will yield different results.

It could be said that the direct stick meters are not as accurate because if you use the meter the way it is designed it won't give the most accurate picture of the salts in the soil. This is because the salts could be more concentrated in different levels of the media, like in the case of points irrigated with sub irrigation; the salts tend to accumulate in the top level of the soil. Using the other methods redistributes the salts in the solution and gives a better picture of the total salts in the container.


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Posts: 1913 | Location: Encinitas, CA USA | Registered: Thu March 20 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
TNT
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Ecke,
Please define your previous answer on EC ranges.

I understand SME: 1.5-2.5

But I don't understand the next part of your answer. 1:2 .07-1.3
 
Posts: 155 | Location: Memphis TN | Registered: Fri August 04 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If I remember correctly it is just another way of testing soil, where by volume, 1 part of soil is mixed with 2 parts of distilled water. If I am wrong someone please correct me!
...Michael Pawelek
 
Posts: 671 | Location: Brookshire, Texas | Registered: Wed September 03 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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The 1 to 2 or 2:1 test is an extracted media test that uses one part medium to two parts of water to test the pH. Samples are taken from the bottom two thirds of the container. The sample is mixed with distilled or de-ionized water for thirty minutes. The solution is then squeezed from the slurry and measurements are taken. Because more water is added and the salts are more dilute the results are lower number with the poor through or saturated media extract methods.


Thank you for using Ecke Ranch Tech Help on-line!
 
Posts: 1913 | Location: Encinitas, CA USA | Registered: Thu March 20 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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